The Grand Ole Opry
The long-running country radio show, broadcast live several nights a week with stars and newcomers each playing a couple of songs. It moves from the Opry House to the Ryman for part of the winter; book ahead, and add the backstage tour.
Ryman Auditorium
A former gospel tabernacle with church pews, home of the Opry for three decades and still a much-loved concert hall. Take the daytime tour, then come back for a show if one is on.
Honky-tonks on Lower Broadway
Bars with live bands on every floor from late morning until the small hours, and usually no cover charge, because the musicians play for tips. Weekend nights are rowdy, so for the music itself go on a weekday afternoon.
Graceland
Elvis Presley's home, with its Jungle Room and walls of gold records, and a large exhibition complex across the road with his cars and planes. Book a timed mansion tour, allow half a day, and arrive early in summer.
Sun Studio
The small studio where Elvis, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis and B.B. King cut early records, still recording today and shown on guided tours every hour. There is no booking, so arrive a little before the hour.
National Civil Rights Museum
Built around the Lorraine Motel, where Dr Martin Luther King Jr was assassinated in 1968, it traces the struggle for civil rights from slavery onwards. It is powerful and detailed; give it at least three hours.
Delta Blues Museum and the crossroads
Clarksdale's museum, in the old freight depot, keeps the rebuilt cabin of Muddy Waters among its treasures. Nearby, the crossroads of Highways 61 and 49 is where legend says Robert Johnson sold his soul for his guitar playing.
Vicksburg National Military Park
The site of the 1863 siege that split the Confederacy along the Mississippi, toured on a long driving loop past monuments and earthworks. Stop at the USS Cairo, an ironclad gunboat raised from the Yazoo River.
Whitney Plantation
A River Road plantation museum told from the viewpoint of the people enslaved there, with memorials that name them and many thousands more enslaved across Louisiana. It is sobering and thoughtfully done; book your visit ahead and give it a morning before driving on to New Orleans.
The Natchez Trace Parkway
A two-lane parkway through woods and farmland from the edge of Nashville to Natchez, with no lorries, no billboards and a low speed limit. It is the slow, green alternative to the interstate, and it passes Tupelo, where Elvis was born.