1
Muscat
First nightsCultureGentle city life
A low-rise capital strung along the coast between jagged brown hills, where white buildings, a restored corniche and the old souq of Muttrah set a slower pace than the Gulf's glass cities. Hotels spread from Qurum's beach to the older districts, and taxis or a driver link them, since the city is long and thin. Evenings mean dinner and a stroll rather than bars.
2
Nizwa
FortsMarketsMountain gateway
The old capital of the interior, set among date gardens where the plain meets the mountains, with a fort, a souk and the UNESCO-listed fort at Bahla close by. It makes a good night between Muscat and the high plateau. Hotels are simple and mostly out on the main road, so it works better as an overnight stop than a base.
3
Jebel Akhdar
Cool airWalkingTerraced villages
The Green Mountain's plateau, far cooler than the coast, where villages cling to terraces of pomegranates, walnuts and roses above deep gorges. A police checkpoint on the climb admits only four-wheel-drive vehicles, so a hire car must be a 4x4 or you travel with a driver. Hotels are few and in demand, some perched on the canyon edge, and winter nights are cold.
4
Wahiba Sands
Desert nightsStarsA change of pace
Rolling dunes of red and honey-coloured sand, also called the Sharqiya Sands, rising beyond the towns of Bidiyah and Al Qabil. Camps range from simple tents to air-conditioned cabins a short drive into the sand, where tyres are let down for the soft tracks, and many will collect you from the road if your car is not a 4x4. One night suits most people.
5
Sur and Ras al Jinz
TurtlesDhow heritageCoast road
A seafaring town of whitewashed houses and a lagoon, with yards where wooden dhows are still built by hand and the turtle beaches of Ras al Jinz a short drive east. Hotels are mostly plain, so plan it as an overnight stop on the route rather than a beach break. The coast road back to Muscat passes Wadi Shab and the Bimmah sinkhole.
6
Muscat coast
Beach finishCouplesFamilies
South-east of the old town the mountains drop straight into the sea in a string of coves, several of them home to large resorts with sheltered beaches and boat jetties. It is the natural place to end a tour with a few days of doing very little. The resorts are self-contained and a taxi ride from the souq, so dinner is usually in the hotel.
7
Musandam
Sea inletsDramatic sceneryAdd-on from Dubai
Oman's northern exclave, separated from the rest of the country by the UAE, where bare mountains plunge into long sea inlets known locally as khors. Khasab is the small base, with a handful of hotels, and most visitors stay a night or two and spend the days on the water. It is usually reached by road from Dubai or Ras Al Khaimah, with a border crossing on the way.