Asia · Beach and resort guide
Temples, rice terraces and surf beaches on one island, where the right base matters as much as the right hotel.
Is it right for you?
A strong fit for
Couples, honeymooners, surfers and families happy with a long journey.
We would think twice for
Anyone expecting quiet white sand everywhere, because the busy south-west coast has heavy traffic, strong surf and plenty of building work, and the calmer corners take time to reach.
What we would want you to know
Traffic in the south makes short distances slow, so fewer bases work better than many.
Our research-led view
Our Bali advice comes from research and planning rather than a trip of our own, and it is built around the island's traffic. Resorts that look close on the map can be an hour or more apart, so two or three well-chosen bases, with a driver for the days out, beat a week of long excursions from one hotel.
We have not been here ourselves yet and will never pretend otherwise. This advice comes from the operator, mapping, hotel and transfer research we do for real enquiries.
Map and areas
The smart end of the south-west coast, with boutiques, restaurants and beach clubs behind a long sandy beach that faces the sunset. It suits couples who want to walk to dinner and have a lively evening, but the surf is strong, the beach is not for small children, and the roads behind it jam most afternoons.
Rice fields and surf camps turned into a sprawl of cafés, gyms and villas along a dark-sand coast. It suits surfers and younger travellers who like a sociable, laid-back scene, but the lanes are narrow and full of scooters, building work is constant, and the sea is rough for casual swimmers.
The inland town for temples, dance performances, galleries and walks through the rice fields, with hotels looking over river gorges and jungle. There is no beach, so most people pair it with a stay by the sea. The centre is congested and loud with traffic, and the calmest hotels sit a short drive out of town.
The limestone peninsula at Bali's southern tip, with cliff-top hotels, famous surf breaks and small coves reached down long flights of steps. It suits couples and honeymooners who want sunsets and space, but it is spread out, most evenings need a taxi, and several of the beaches shrink to almost nothing at high tide.
A gated enclave of large resorts on the east side of the Bukit, with landscaped grounds, a beach path and a reef that keeps the sea calm for much of the day. It suits families and anyone who wants everything on site, but it can feel cut off from Bali itself, and at low tide the water retreats a long way.
An older, low-rise resort on the east coast, with a long paved path along the beach and shallow water behind the reef. It suits families and couples who want to walk to dinner without the Seminyak crowds, and the fast boats to Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida leave from here. At low tide the sea is shallow and weedy.
Weather and seasons
Bali runs on two seasons rather than four. The drier months, roughly April to October, bring days around 29°C, lower humidity and the clearest dawns for the climb up Mount Batur, though July and August are also the busiest and dearest weeks of the year. The monsoon from November to March arrives mostly as heavy afternoon storms, with around 344mm in January, and rough seas can cancel boats to the Nusa islands. Nyepi, the day of silence, usually falls in March and closes the airport for a full day, so check the date before you book. May, June and September are the months we suggest most.
Worth timing a trip around
Balinese New Year. For 24 hours the island shuts down, the airport included, and visitors stay inside their hotels. The evening before, towns parade huge ogoh-ogoh demon figures through the streets.
A ten-day festival marking the victory of good over evil, when villages line the roads with tall bamboo penjor poles and families visit temples in their finest dress.
A month of dance, music and craft in Denpasar, opening with a big parade and followed by nightly performances from village groups across the island.
Talks, readings and workshops across Ubud's gardens and cafés, drawing writers from Indonesia and around the world.
| Month | High | Low | Sea | Rain |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| January | 31°C | 26°C | 29°C | 344 mm |
| February | 31°C | 25°C | 29°C | 235 mm |
| March | 31°C | 26°C | 29°C | 184 mm |
| April | 31°C | 26°C | 29°C | 93 mm |
| May | 30°C | 26°C | 28°C | 111 mm |
| June | 30°C | 25°C | 27°C | 59 mm |
| July | 29°C | 25°C | 26°C | 99 mm |
| August | 29°C | 24°C | 26°C | 31 mm |
| September | 30°C | 25°C | 26°C | 47 mm |
| October | 31°C | 25°C | 27°C | 67 mm |
| November | 31°C | 26°C | 28°C | 230 mm |
| December | 31°C | 26°C | 29°C | 380 mm |
Temperatures are 2015 to 2024 averages from NOAA records for Bali Intl / I Gusti Ngurah Rai, 6 km away at 4 m. Rainfall is from the GPCC rain-gauge analysis (Deutscher Wetterdienst) for 2010 to 2019 and shows the typical (median) month, so one freak storm does not skew it. Sea temperatures: NOAA OISST, 1991 to 2020.
| Month | High | Low | Rain |
|---|---|---|---|
| January | 29°C | 24°C | 314 mm |
| February | 29°C | 24°C | 192 mm |
| March | 30°C | 24°C | 148 mm |
| April | 30°C | 24°C | 92 mm |
| May | 29°C | 24°C | 106 mm |
| June | 28°C | 24°C | 86 mm |
| July | 28°C | 24°C | 146 mm |
| August | 28°C | 23°C | 49 mm |
| September | 28°C | 23°C | 48 mm |
| October | 30°C | 24°C | 50 mm |
| November | 30°C | 24°C | 201 mm |
| December | 30°C | 24°C | 336 mm |
Temperatures are 2015 to 2024 averages from NOAA records for Bali Intl / I Gusti Ngurah Rai, 28 km away at 4 m, adjusted for the 198 m difference in altitude. Rainfall is from the GPCC rain-gauge analysis (Deutscher Wetterdienst) for 2010 to 2019 and shows the typical (median) month, so one freak storm does not skew it.
Sand, shingle and swimming
Long, wide and golden-grey, with beanbags and beach bars filling up for sunset. The waves and currents are powerful, so swim only between the red and yellow lifeguard flags and keep children at the water's edge.
A small cove on the Bukit reached down a narrow stairway through the rocks, with pale sand and clear water on calm days. It is busy by late morning, tiny at high tide, and the reef break offshore is for expert surfers only.
White sand in front of the big resorts, with calm, clear water inside the reef for much of the day. Good for families and snorkelling around high tide, but at low tide the water drops back and swimming is limited.
A long, gently shelving beach sheltered by an offshore reef, with a paved path behind it for walking and cycling. The shallow water suits paddling children better than swimming lengths, especially at low tide.
A wide crescent of sand just south of the airport, where seafood grills set tables on the beach at sunset. The water is calmer than at Kuta, and the evening fish dinner with your feet in the sand is why most people come.
Things to do
Steep, palm-fringed terraces north of Ubud that fill with visitors by mid-morning. Go early for soft light and cooler walking, wear trainers rather than flip-flops on the narrow paths, and expect small donation points as you cross the fields.
A pre-dawn climb up an active volcano, starting in the dark around four in the morning, to watch the sun rise over the crater lake with Mount Agung beyond. The path is steep and loose near the top, so it suits fit walkers, and treks go with local guides.
A sea temple on a cliff edge at the island's southern tip, where the Kecak fire dance is performed at sunset. Knees must be covered (sarongs are provided), and the monkeys snatch sunglasses and phones, so keep both out of reach.
A spring-fed temple near Ubud where Balinese Hindus bathe in the purification pools. Visitors may join in wearing a sarong; arrive at opening time for quiet pools, and follow the temple staff's guidance on which spouts to use.
A rugged island reached by fast boat from Sanur, known for the cliffs above Kelingking Beach and the manta rays off its south coast. The roads are slow and rough and the day is long, so we often suggest a night on Nusa Lembongan instead.
Broad, gently stepped terraces in the central highlands, part of Bali's UNESCO-listed subak landscape and far quieter than Tegallalang. Walking trails loop through the fields, and the lake temple at Bratan makes a natural second stop.
A green valley of rice fields and weaving villages in the east, with Mount Agung rising behind. A night or two here slows the whole trip down and feels far removed from the busy south.
Dark-sand bays on the east coast with coral close to shore, and the wreck of the USAT Liberty at Tulamben lying in shallow water just off the beach. Calm, clear mornings are best, and it is a long drive from the south.
A forest sanctuary of temples and long-tailed macaques in the middle of Ubud. The monkeys are bold: zip your bags, carry no food, and get medical help straight away after any scratch or bite, because rabies is present in Bali.
Most classes begin at a morning market, then work through spice pastes, sate lilit and sambal in a family compound. It is one of the best ways to understand the food, and plenty run in the villages around Ubud.
Food and drink
Spit-roast suckling pig rubbed with turmeric, chilli and lemongrass, served with crackling and rice. Bali is mostly Hindu, so pork is everywhere here, unlike much of Indonesia.
Rice with a spread of small portions, often shredded chicken, satay, egg, vegetables and sambal. Every warung has its own version, and it is the best-value lunch on the island.
Duck rubbed with spice paste, wrapped in banana leaves and slow-cooked for hours. Once kept for ceremonies, it is now on many menus, and some places ask you to order a day ahead.
Minced fish or chicken mixed with coconut and spices, pressed around lemongrass stalks and grilled over coals.
A mix of chopped vegetables, grated coconut and minced meat in a rich spice paste. Some versions include raw blood, so ask if you would rather avoid it.
Strong local coffee brewed with the grounds in the cup, so let it settle before you drink. Many villages around Kintamani grow their own.
Shape of the trip
Nights 1 to 4
Start inland while you shake off the journey: rice-terrace walks at dawn, the water temple at Tirta Empul, a cooking class and an evening of dance. Hotels here sit quietly over the river valleys.
Nights 5 and 6
Drop down to the calm east coast for easy beach days, and take the fast boat across to Nusa Penida or Nusa Lembongan for the cliffs and the manta rays.
Nights 7 to 12
Finish on the cliffs of the Bukit for sunsets, surf beaches and the Kecak dance at Uluwatu Temple, close to the airport for the flight home.
An idea to react to, not a fixed package. We shape the real thing around your dates, your pace and what the flights are doing that season.
Money
The long-haul flight is the biggest single cost, and it swings with the calendar: July, August and Christmas are dear, while May, June and September bring similar weather for less. On the island your money goes a long way in local warungs, in spas and on a private driver, but pool villas and cliff-top hotels on the Bukit charge international rates. The best-value extra is a good driver by the day, because it turns traffic into time you can use.
Flights and transfers
There is no direct UK flight to Bali, so it is one stop through an Asian hub such as Singapore into Denpasar, and the outbound journey takes the best part of a day. We plan the connection with care and often suggest two nights in Singapore on the way to break it up.
Flights from UK airports
Route check September 2026. Some routes are seasonal and schedules change, so we confirm the live options when we quote.
Practical details
8 hours ahead of the UK in winter, 7 hours in summer
Indonesian rupiah (IDR, Rp)
Indonesian and Balinese; English is widely spoken in tourist areas
Type C and F, 230V
On the left
Not safe to drink; use bottled or filtered water
Not expected, but welcome for drivers, guides and spa staff; many bills already include a service charge
Entry for British passport holders
Visa. You need a visa. A 30-day visa on arrival costs 500,000 rupiah, or you can apply online before you travel. Bali also charges foreign visitors a 150,000 rupiah tourist levy, payable online or on arrival.
Passport. Valid for at least 6 months after you arrive, with at least 2 blank pages.
Complete the free All Indonesia arrival card online in the 3 days before you arrive, and avoid look-alike websites that charge for it.
Summarised from the FCDO travel advice on gov.uk, checked 29 September 2026. Rules change: read the current entry requirements and the full travel advice before you go.
Questions we get asked
Sanur and Nusa Dua. Both have calm, shallow water behind a reef, level beach paths and hotels built around children, while Seminyak and Canggu face heavy surf. Many families add three or four nights in Ubud for the rice fields and temples, then finish on the east-side beaches.
It depends on the coast. The south-west beaches from Kuta to Canggu have powerful surf and rip currents, so swim only between the lifeguard flags. Sanur and Nusa Dua are calmer inside the reef, though the water retreats a long way at low tide, and some of the small Bukit coves have strong currents too.
Roughly November to March, at its wettest from December to February. The rain usually comes as heavy afternoon or evening storms rather than grey days, so mornings are often clear, but roads can flood and boats to the Nusa islands are cancelled when the sea is rough.
Ten to fourteen, once you allow for the long journey. Most people split the stay between Ubud and a beach area; with fewer than ten nights, two bases is plenty, because traffic makes every move slower than the map suggests.
We advise against it. Traffic is heavy, scooter accidents involving visitors are common, and many travel insurance policies will not cover riding without a full motorcycle licence. A private driver by the day costs little and is how most visitors explore.
Drink bottled or filtered water, choose busy places where food is cooked fresh, and peel or wash fruit. Be wary of cheap spirits and cocktails too: there have been cases of methanol poisoning from counterfeit alcohol in Bali, including in licensed bars.
Photographs
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